Destination: Milan, Italy
Mode of Transport: Cotoletta Alla Milanese
On the Fourth of July this past Friday, our country, America, commemorated its Independence. My daughter and I celebrated by taking a flight to Italy for our summer holiday! Our first stop was Milano
Since I spent 20 years in the fashion business and mostly worked for Italian luxury houses, I thought it was important for Bailey to see this town. The last time I was here was in January of 2000.
My husband was in Milan for business with the house of Valentino. It was also around my 30th birthday, so he had decided to treat me to a trip around Italy’s important cities. I met him in Milan during the end of his work stint.
The first time I had Cotoletta Alla Milanese in Milan
We stayed at a hotel named Antica Locanda Solferino. The hotel also had a restaurant around the corner, also named Solferino. This was the first time I had had a Cotoletta alla Milanese, which is a veal chop with the bone from the rib, breaded and then fried in clarified butter.
I know that this dish is quite common in New York now, but at the time, it was such a discovery for me. I had never had anything like it before – it was thin, breaded, but very delicate.
Of course, the first dish I wanted to eat 14 years later, was the Cotoletta. B and I checked into the Hotel Gran Duca di York just in time for dinner on the fifth of July. We showered, changed and headed to the concierge desk to ask where we should eat Milanese specialties.
Kenneth, our concierge, suggested we go to Hostaria Borromei, just around the corner. He made a reservation for us, but unfortunately, they only had a table inside and not in their lovely garden. B and I didn’t care; we were famished.
They sat us next to the garden, so we could feel like a part of the action. The hostess served me a complimentary prosecco (Italian sparkling wine), which was a great welcoming surprise. I’m not sure if she serves this to everyone, or if it was because we couldn’t get a table in the garden – regardless, it was very nice of her.
I, of course, ordered the Cotoletta alla Milanese for my dish, along with the house red wine – which was delicious. It’s nice to have a good glass of wine that doesn’t cost $12 a glass, like back home in NYC.
The cutlet was just as I remembered 14 years ago, the only difference being that it did not have sauce already on it, nor was it accompanied by a salad. Instead, it was served with fried potatoes. B liked it very much too, and had a few bites.
The next night, I again had a Cotoletta alla Milanese – because you never know when you’ll be back in Milan again – at another restaurant that our concierge Matteo suggested, Ristorante Convivium. The atmosphere here was very modern and fancy – a contrast to Hostaria Borromei, which was very traditional. However, the dishes and prices were very similar.
The Cotoletta was also good, but served with fried potatoes. Many of the locals eating at both restaurants also ordered the Cotoletta, so it made me feel really Italian.
Andrew and I discussed the reasons for the Milanese making this dish their traditional recipe, and we concluded that because they were part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, this dish is a cousin to the Wienerschnitzel. After looking it up on Milan’s tourism website, our hunch was right.
Apparently the Milanese believe they gave the Austrians this dish, but the Austrians believe it was the other way around. This dish was mentioned in a Milanese document from the year 1148, and it was called lumbulus con panitio (breaded veal loins) – a very old dish and very traditional to the town of Milan.
Another observation I had of Milan was that they were not as World Cup-crazy as they were when I was here in 2006. Perhaps it’s because they didn’t make it past the first round? Or it may have just been because Milan is such a serious business town? I’m not sure. I did, however, see lots of World Cup paraphernalia, even plastered right on the face of the city’s famous cathedral, il Duomo di Milano.
Next time, when I’m home and I see Cotoletta alla Milanese, I will have to order it, so I can transport myself back to Milan with a dish. Or maybe I’ll have to make it myself.
Have you had the Cotoletta alla Milanese? Did you have it in Milan? Perhaps somewhere else in the Lombardy region? If not, will you be trying it the next time you’re in Milan? Please let me know in the comments.
If you liked this dish, please share it with your friends, I would really appreciate it. Remember – let’s travel the world, one dish at a time!
how interesting! my kids lived on the Schnitzel when we went to Austria. A lot of the other stuff was too weird for them but breaded meat they could do. I always assumed it was only in Austria.
Who doesn’t love a schnitzel right? Haven’t been to Austria yet, can’t wait to go and have some sacher torte some day! Thanks for dishing with us Shobha.
As a foodie who will hopefully make it to Italy soon, I loved reading about this dish and its flavours and history. I hope to try it when I get around to backpacking the region! Mangia mangia!
Andrea:
Yes, this region has lots to offer for sure. Hope you do get to go there soon. Thank you for reading along. All the Best, Andrew
Haven’t before tried the Cotoletta alla Milanese – we were young backpackers when we hit up Milan so were surviving off 2 minute noodles lol blasphemy I know!! Will have to get back to experience the food scene now that we’ve graduated from backpackers to regular travelers π
Meg:
Can’t beat 2 minute noodles, still one of my favorites. I do hope you get to head back there soon. It’s a great town. Thank you so much for joining us in this journey. All the Best, Andrew
I’d love to try cotoletta, especially in Milan! Your daughter must love sharing in your experiences!
Vicky and Buddy: Very few dishes are as significant to a town as cotoletta is to Milan. The only other I can think of at the top of my head is Bolognese. Thank you for reading along; and all the best with your journeys. Best, Andrew
Although I am not really a fan of Milano, I loved reading the story about the cotoletta alla milanese coming from “lumbulus con panitio” π
Now another dish to add to my food bucket list! π Looks like you had a good 30th birthday trip around Italy, specifically Milan!
Never been to Italy, but it is on our list. We always try local food when we travel. The Cotoletta alla Milanese looks delicious. I have made a note and the next time I travel to Europe I will try it. Eventually, when in Italy will try it also.
You are your daughter are so cute! Love that you both wear glasses!
Pollo Milanesa is a very popular dish here in MedellΓn, Colombia as well. So good. The architecture in Milan is just stunning, is that in a cathedral in the second picture? What is it called?
Sounds like a fun trip…your daughter must have absolutely loved it. Milan is a bit of an underrated tourist destination in Italy, I think.
Beautiful city! Looks like you had a great time with your family. Heading back to Italy in a few weeks and I’d love to see Milan.